WHAT TO DO IN APRIL by Jim Hagan

 

By now your bonsai should be out of their winter storage and back on their benches. If your display benches are in an area of high winds you should consider tying the containers to the bench – especially if your trees are large. A sudden wind can easily sweep the bonsai and container off the bench. Aluminum bonsai wire is very useful.

When you bring you bonsai out of their winter storage you may find an excessive amount of moss. If moss covers the entire surface of the soil it will limit the flow of air and moisture to the root system. And if the moss is growing up the trunk of your bonsai the result is usually fatal. Thin the moss to allow air and moisture to penetrate to the root system and remove all moss from the tree trunks.

Spring is a good time for spring cleaning. Take an old toothbrush and a mild soap solution to gently scrub the trunks of your smooth barked trees. You will be surprised to see the amount of grime that is removed. You will not only remove dirt but also bugs, fungi, moss and the same time stimulate the tree. Inspect each of your bonsai carefully. Be especially alert for old wires. Remove all previously placed wires. In the spring both branches and the trunk grow rapidly. If old wires are not removed the bark can be permanently scarred. If upon removal of the wire the limb does not hold the desired position you must rewire the limb.

Your deciduous trees should be repotted first. Conifers may be repotted up until June. Plants that flower early (such as azaleas) should be repotted as soon as the blossoms begin to fade. Protect newly repotted trees from the wind and direct sun for at least three weeks. Keep the soil moist but not wet. One month after repotting begin to fertilize weekly at one half the recommended strength.

With spring also come insects and diseases. Check your supply of fungicides and insecticides. Check your trees every day. Don’t wait. Counterattack at the first sign of infestation. Use a separate bottle (appropriately labeled) for each chemical. Be sure to follow all instructions. Preventative measurers are helpful in controlling insects. The area under your benches should be clean – no leaves, weeds, puddles, etc. Use a commercial inspect spray under your benches and along the pathways of your bonsai garden.

WHY DO WE REPOT BONSAI?

A bonsai is confined to its container. At some point it will fill the container with the roots and become "pot bound." Air, water and nutrients will not be able to penetrate the root ball. The tree will suffer and eventually die without some action being taken.

HOW OFTEN TO AND REPOT AND WHEN?

There is no simple way to say "repot every x Years." The answer depends on the age and species of your tree, the size of the pot, and most importantly the health and vigor of the tree. But, as a guide younger bonsai are usually repotted every one or two years and older trees less frequently.

The ideal time to repot is when the tree is awakening from dormancy. The optimum time is when the new buds are swelling. This is when the tree has vigor. The reserves it built up during the previous year are being brought into action for the new season’s growth. When repotting you usually remove about one-quarter to one-third of the current root ball. Dead roots, thick roots and damaged ones are also removed. Something blunt and nonmetallic (such as chopsticks) are good for untangling roots. Be gentle. Use sharp tools when cutting roots.

After repotting the tree, water it well. Place it where it is protected from frost and has a good airflow. Don’t water again until the soil begins to dry – which indicates the roots are active. Don’t fertilize until the tree is actively growing. Once all is well the tree can be put back into its normal display position. Then water and fertilize as usual

-Jim Hagan